Q1: What are the differences between plywood, density board and particle board? Which one is more durable?
A: Plywood: Multiple layers of solid wood veneers are cross-bonded together, featuring high bending strength and good moisture resistance. It is suitable for load-bearing structures (such as bookshelves and stairs).
Particleboard: Pressed from wood powder, with a smooth surface that is easy to process, but it expands when exposed to water and is only suitable for dry environments (such as veneered cabinet doors).
Particle board: It is made by pressing wood chips with glue. It is low in price but has poor nail-holding capacity and is commonly found in low-priced furniture.
Conclusion: For long-term use, plywood is preferred, especially birch or eucalyptus wood.
Q2: Can plywood be directly painted? How should it be preprocessed?
A: It can be painted, but it requires three steps of treatment:
1. Grinding: Remove surface burrs with 240-mesh sandpaper;
2. Jointing: Repair knots or joints with wood putty;
3. Primer: Apply water-based primer to seal the pores and prevent the topcoat from being absorbed by the board.
Recommendation: Matte paint can cover up slight unevenness, while glossy paint requires A-grade board substrate.
Q3: Why do the prices of some plywood vary several times? What are the hidden costs?
A: The price differences mainly come from:
Material cost: Birch wood is 30%-50% more expensive than poplar wood.
Glue type: Formaldehyde-free MDI glue is twice as expensive as ordinary urea-formaldehyde glue.
Process standard: Hot pressing (high cost but good stability) vs. cold pressing (prone to deformation).
Avoid pitfalls: Low-priced boards may use inferior glue (with excessive formaldehyde) or have fewer layers (prone to delamination).
Q4: Can plywood be used in damp environments (such as bathrooms)? How to prevent mold?
A:Material selection: “Waterproof plywood” (marked with WBP or Marine Grade) must be selected, and phenolic resin glue should be used;
– Treatment: After installation, apply waterproof sealant to the edges and stick moisture-proof film on the back.
Maintenance: Wipe the high-incidence areas of mold spots with diluted bleach every month.
Q5: Is it true that the more “layers” a plywood has, the better?
A: Not absolutely! The purpose and cost need to be balanced:
Layer 3: Lightweight and inexpensive, suitable for decorative veneers;
5-7 floors: Universal type, the first choice for furniture making;
Layer 9: Ultra-high strength, but heavy weight (suitable for heavy-duty shelves).
Key point: Odd-numbered layer structures are more stable, and the thickness between layers should be uniform.
Q6: How to identify inferior plywood?
A: Four-step rapid identification method:
1. Observe the cross-section: Obvious delamination or many gaps = poor bonding.
2. Smell the edge: A pungent sour smell indicates excessive formaldehyde.
3. Measure weight: If it is too light under the same size, it indicates that there are impurities in the filling.
4. Water immersion test: Edge delamination after 24 hours = water resistance does not meet the standard.
Q7: Can plywood replace solid wood for flooring?
A: Yes, but there are restrictions:
Applicable: Laminate flooring base layer (with a thickness of 12mm or more), underfloor heating environment (with better stability than solid wood);
Not applicable: Pure plywood is directly laid on the floor (with poor wear resistance), and a wear-resistant layer needs to be attached to the surface.
Q8: What should I do if the edges of plywood are prone to cracking during cutting?
A: Professional carpentry advice:
Tools: Use fine-toothed tungsten steel saw blades or laser cutting machines;
Technique: Stick masking tape on the cut edge before cutting and advance at a low speed.
Remedy: Apply woodworking glue to the cracked edge and then sand it with sandpaper.
Q9: Is imported plywood (such as from Malaysia and Russia) better than domestic ones?
A: It depends on specific requirements:
Import advantages: Tropical hardwoods (such as eucalyptus) have a high density and are suitable for harsh environments;
Domestic advantages: High cost performance (low freight), strict E0-level environmental protection standard.
Note: Imported boards need to provide quarantine certificates (to prevent the risk of insect infestation).
Q10: How can old plywood be refurbished and reused?
A: Three environmental protection solutions:
1. Surface renovation: After sanding, apply PVC wood grain film;
2. Renovation: Cut into small sizes to make flower stands and pet houses;
3. Recycling: Contact a local building materials recycler (for making particleboard after crushing).
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